our nature is creative
and nurturing, or
you wouldn’t have chosen
to venture into the culinary
field. But that terrain can be
a minefield of allergens that
have the potential to kill the
very guests you aim to please.
That’s a pretty scary scenario,
but the reality is that increasing
numbers of Americans have
food allergies—now about 12
million, or one in 25—plus, a
huge number of people have
undiagnosed food allergies.
Y
People with food allergies
must strictly avoid the
allergen, that is, the food—or
even a trace amount of that
food—that would trigger
an allergic reaction. The
eight foods that trigger
approximately 90 percent of all
food-related allergic reactions
are: milk, shellfish, eggs,
peanuts, tree nuts (almonds,
walnuts, cashews, pecans,
etc.), fish, wheat and soy.
Some experts now suggest
that a ninth allergen, corn,
should be added to the list.
When an allergic reaction is
severe, anaphylaxis—a rare
but potentially fatal reaction
that includes swelling of the
mouth and throat, a drop
in blood pressure, hives or
unconsciousness—may occur.
In the back of the house,
preventing even a trace amount
of allergen from getting into
the food to be served is key,
notes Elizabeth Bugden, a
food safety consultant based
in Manchester, N.H. Bugden
recently participated in “Food
Safety Considerations and
Food Allergy Management
Best Practices for School Food
Service,” the fourth podcast in a
series that was presented by the
School Nutrition Foundation
(SNF) and the U.S. Department
of Agriculture (USDA).
“Cross contact occurs when
one food comes into contact
with another food and their
proteins mix,” Bugden
explains. “Cross contact can be
direct—such as placing a piece
of cheese on a hamburger—but
it may also be indirect and
less obvious. Indirect cross
contact may cause food
allergen risk because a small
amount of food allergen can
be transferred to a food. This
amount can be enough to cause
an allergic reaction.”
For example, Bugden says
that using the same spatula
to serve chicken breast after
serving a soy-containing
burger may transfer soy to
the chicken. Even if this cross
contact occurs prior to cooking
the chicken breast, the heat
of cooking will not kill the
protein of the soy contaminant.
Certainly, the use of separate
utensils reduces the cross
contact risk.
Indirect cross contact can also
occur by hand—even a gloved
hand. As Bugden points out in
a school foodservice example,
“A foodservice employee picks
up a banana/nut muffin with a
gloved hand and places it on a
student’s tray, and then picks
up a blueberry muffin with the
same gloved hand and places it
on a different student’s tray. The
nuts in the banana/nut muffin
are known allergens. Small
pieces of the nuts may remain
on the glove and be transferred
to the blueberry muffin. Using
separate, clean and sanitized
utensils rather than a gloved
hand to serve the muffins would
reduce the risk of cross contact.”
Indirect cross contact can also
occur from surfaces, such as
a cutting board. “Even a few
crumbs from gluten-containing
breads and crackers can turn
your gluten-free food into
a toxic treat,” says Danna
Korn, founder of the national
support group R.O.C.K.
(Raising Our Celiac Kids)
and author of Living Gluten-Free for Dummies (Wiley &
Sons, Inc., 2006). “Be diligent
about cleaning crumbs, and
remember the golden rule:
When in doubt, leave it out. If
you’re not sure that your meal
is uncontaminated, don’t eat it.”
And, don’t serve it to a guest.
reading labels,
yet again
That edict, “When in doubt,
leave it out,” should be taken to
heart when diligently reading
food labels after each new
delivery, warns Peggy Eller,
RD, CD, nutrition services
director for Wisconsin’s
Hudson School District. Eller
underscores the dangers of
hidden allergens, noting that
studies by the Food Allergy &
Anaphylaxis Network (FAAN)
show that half of reported
allergic reactions were caused
by hidden allergens. “It is
imperative for the foodservice
staff to read and check nutrition
labels of all products on each
delivery,” Eller says. “It is
possible for manufacturers to
change ingredients without
notice. If an ingredient
statement is not available or
if there is any uncertainty, the
product should not be used.”
Cybele Pascal’s allergen-free
fudge brownies and chocolate
chunk blondie bars.
Photo: Chugrad McAndrews; Reprinted with permission
from The Allergen-Free Baker’s Handbook (Celestial
Arts, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, 2009)