Sizzle - Winter 2010

Growing up in France, Gui Alinat, certified executive chef (CEC), remembers having canard à l’orange (duck with orange sauce) for special occasions. The dish, although a staple in classic French cuisine, was one of those iconic dishes you hear about but rarely see, Alinat says, noting that duck is uncommon in many regions of France. With the holidays approaching, we called on Alinat, a chef, food blogger and culinary instructor at The International Culinary School at The Art Institute of Tampa and Jacobson Culinary Arts Academy in Tarpon Springs, Fla., and Jordan Guevara, a 16-year-old from Jacobson, to demonstrate the dish, two ways.

Two versions of canard à l’orange can be found in Auguste Escoffier’s Le Guide Culinaire: braised and roasted. For the classical recipe demonstrated here, the duck is braised and served with julienned oranges and lemons, potatoes and onions. In the modern version, it is cooked using the sous-vide method, and is served with potatoes, carrots, asparagus, orange confit gellan and beets. In both recipes, gastrique sauce is drizzled over the duck. “I think the essence of canard à l’orange is the contrast in the fat/meat/fruit pairing,” Alinat notes.

According to Alinat, the dish gained popularity in the French bourgeoisie, and became a staple in traditional French cuisine over the years. Julia Child was instrumental in popularizing the dish in America.

Until recently, Guevara had not even heard of canard à l’orange, let alone prepared it. First, Brett Gardiner, executive chef at Hapa, Oldsmar, Fla., where Guevara works part-time, demonstrated the restaurant’s popular roasted version. Then, Alinat, Guevara’s chef-instructor at Jacobson Culinary Arts Academy, demonstrated a braised version. After thorough research, it was Guevara’s turn to cook.

“Canard à l’orange is such an admirable dish,” he says. “The techniques used are not complex, and are fairly easy to master. The flavor contrasts are divine, and the dish has a homey feel.” Students who prepare this dish will learn many techniques, Guevara says, such as braising, caramelizing, the tourné cut and how to make a gastrique sauce. He had success with the dish his first time preparing it, which he attributes to the demonstrations and the research he put into the dish before turning on any burners.

“I would caution fellow students to watch their timing and the temperature of the duck,” he says. “You can really lose track of time on this dish. Also, make sure your tournéed potatoes are as

Jordan Guevara

5. For pommes cocotte, tourné potatoes 2 inches long. Blanch. Sauté. Reserve. Glaze onions à brun. Reserve. 6. When fully cooked, reserve duck. Rest duck for at least 15-20 minutes. 7. Reduce fonds de braisage (mirepoix/wine/stock mixture). For gastrique sauce, make light caramel with remaining sugar and vinegar. Add orange juice. Add to fonds de braisage. Reduce until sauce is à la nappe. To finish, salt and pepper to taste; check consistency and flavor. To plate: Place duck in middle of large platter. Coat with gastrique sauce; decorate with orange and lemon julienne. Place pommes cocotte and onions as garnish. Decorate platter with half-slices of orange.

Canard à l'orange

Gui Alinat

Student Jacobson Culinary Arts Academy Tarpon Springs, Fla.

Yield: 6 servings

Ingredients:

1 Pekin duck, excess fat removed (reserve for searing)

4. Julienne 2 zested oranges and lemon. Blanch twice. Create simple syrup by cooking 1 cup sugar and water until clear; boil for 1 minute. Confit orange/lemon in simple syrup. Cut half-slices of remaining orange; reserve for garnish.