Deivert designed, built and tested
wind tunnel instruments for
military and civilian aircrafts at
NASA’s Langley Research Center
in Hampton, Virginia, for a living.
Downsizing caused him to make a
career change, and culinary arts was
a natural fit. Growing up in rural
Pennsylvania, his earliest memories
were plowing and planting the soil
for the family garden and preparing
the harvest for preservation or for
Deivert enjoys being a culinary
instructor because he is constantly
learning and relearning techniques
he had been taught 20 years ago
in culinary school. His experience
has taken him up and down the
East Coast, including positions as
executive chef at The Ritz-Carlton
Members Club, Sarasota, Florida,
and chef de cuisine at The Circular
Dining Room at Hotel Hershey,
The most difficult part of the modern
version of veal Oscar for Deivert
was organization. By featuring three
nontraditional veal products—
sweetbreads, cheeks and tenderloin—
rather than the commonly used
loin or cutlets, cooking times were
longer. To make this dish work,
advanced preparation for these items
was necessary. When researching
this dish, Deivert chose these cuts
because he felt they were the epitome
of classical dishes. The cuts are a great
way to introduce the modern element
into the dish by using cooking
techniques such as sous vide.
The techniques he used may be
intimidating for some. He encourages
everyone to cook at his or her comfort
level. The cheeks and tenderloin could
be cooked on the stovetop instead of
sous vide. If unsure about performing
molecular gastronomy for the
béarnaise spheres, freezing the sauce
and then breading the spheres would
provide the same result. But there are
positives to using modern techniques.
“By braising the cheeks in a circulator,
they lose little of their original mass
and do not need to be cooked well-done to be tender,” he says.
Deivert wanted to have fun and
create something that could not
be reproduced on the line, but that
still maintained high standards
and featured different textures and
techniques. He also wanted to boost
the flavors of typical side dishes.
For example, he added parsnips
in the potato puree “This is one of
my favorite vegetables for creating
purees, as parsnips are creamy and
have an intrinsic sweetness.”
When choosing this recipe, Deivert
recognized that veal has negative
connotations attached to it, but as a
food item, it provides guests with a
dining experience that is unmatched.
However, because of its high cost, he
would rarely include veal on a regular
seasonal menu in a restaurant. Instead,
he sees it as a frontrunner for a special
event, holiday menu or wine dinner.
Modern Veal Oscar
Yield: 4 servings
Sous vide veal cheeks
1 ½ lbs. veal cheek, trimmed
Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper,
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup onion, diced
¼ cup carrot, diced
¼ cup celery, diced
1 ½ T. tomato paste
6 oz. dry red wine
6 oz. port wine
1 bay leaf
8 sprigs fresh thyme
6 large prunes, pitted (may substitute
apricots, figs or cherries)
1 pint veal stock
1 T. course cracked black pepper
1. Season veal cheek meat with salt and
pepper; set aside.
2. Heat olive oil in heavy-gauge sautoir
or small rondeau. Add veal cheek;
sear both sides. Remove; reserve.
3. Add onion, season with salt; cook until
light brown, stirring often. Add carrot
and celery, season with salt; lightly
caramelize, stirring often.
4. Add tomato paste; pincé; deglaze with
wines. Scrape pan bottom to remove
fond. Add bay leaf, thyme, prunes and
cheek to pan; simmer, reducing wine
by half. Add veal stock, simmer for 10
minutes. Remove from heat.
5. Cool mixture to below 70°F within two
hours in ice bath. Preheat water bath
to 71°C. In vacuum pouch, seal small
quantities cheek with equal parts
liquid and solid. Cook in water bath
for 12 hours.
6. Remove cheeks from bags; strain
liquid into saucepan. Reduce to
sauce consistency. Add cheeks to
sauce. Gently reheat for service.
Olive oil poached
2 ( 8 oz.) veal tenderloin,
½ cup Arbequino extra virgin olive oil
¼ large shallot, thin sliced
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 t. white peppercorns, crushed
¼ cup grapeseed oil
Kosher salt and fresh cracked white
pepper, to taste
½ T. tarragon, chopped
½ T. parsley, chopped
½ T. chervil, chopped
½ T. chives, chopped
2 T. shallot, fine diced
2 oz. white wine
2 cups veal stock
1 t. unsalted butter
1. In vacuum bags, seal tenderloins,
olive oil, thin sliced shallot, thyme,
garlic and peppercorns. Place in 51°C
water bath for 45 minutes.
2. Heat grapeseed oil in heavy-
bottomed saute pan over medium-
high heat. Remove tenderloins
from package, season with salt
and pepper; sear both sides for 10
seconds. Remove from pan.
3. Roll tenderloins in mixture of tarragon,
parsley, chervil and chives, reserve.
Place fine diced shallot in pan; cook
lightly. Deglaze with wine; reduce. Add
veal stock; reduce by half.
4. Mount with butter; strain. Reserve for
Crispy veal sweetbreads
8 oz. veal sweetbreads
1 qt. court-bouillon
Seasoned flour, as needed
¼ cup grapeseed oil
2 oz. unsalted butter
1 T. shallot, fine diced
1 T. lemon juice
1 lemon, supremed; reserve several pieces
1 t. parsley, chopped
1. In lightly salted water, soak
sweetbreads overnight to remove
residual blood. Drain; rinse well.
2. Poach sweetbreads in court-bouillon
for 30 minutes. Place in ice bath; peel
membrane. Wrap in cheesecloth;
gently press overnight in refrigerator.
3. Slice ¼-inch medallions; sprinkle with
seasoned flour, shaking off excess.
In heavy-bottomed saute pan with
grapeseed oil, sear medallions
on each side until golden-brown.
Remove from pan; reserve.
4. Add butter to pan; brown. Add shallot,
lemon juice and segments. Return
sweetbreads to pan; toss to combine.
Sprinkle in parsley; reserve for service.
Potato parsnip puree
8 oz. russet potatoes, peeled, diced
12 oz. parsnips, peeled, diced
1 cup whole milk
2 cups heavy whipping cream
Kosher salt and white pepper, to taste
2 oz. unsalted butter
1. Place potatoes, parsnips, whole milk,
whipping cream, salt and pepper in
heavy-bottomed saucepan. Simmer
until parsnips are tender. Drain;
2. Puree with butter in blender until
smooth, adding reserved liquid as
needed. Adjust seasonings; reserve
4 T. shallot, fine diced
2 T. dried tarragon leaves
2 oz. tarragon vinegar
4 oz. white wine
1 t. fresh ground white pepper
4 T. fresh tarragon, chopped
1. Simmer shallot, dried tarragon
leaves, tarragon vinegar, white wine
and white pepper in nonreactive
saucepan to au sec. Remove from
heat; cool slightly; add fresh tarragon.
½ cup white wine
¼ cup white wine vinegar