Sizzle - Summer 2011

modern
Searching for a classical soup
recipe, Taubin and Wright decided
to feature vichyssoise because it
is quick to prepare and is served
chilled, which is “perfect for hot days
when long-cooking soups heat the
kitchen.”
To achieve this, pour the sweet
potato first, starting in the middle,
and then pour the white soup.
Using the back of a spoon, pull the
sweet potato into the white.

Local Duo Vichyssoise
Yield: 6 portions

Elaine Taubin, CEC Executive Chef Loews Vanderbilt Hotel Nashville, Tenn.

Taubin has worked with many young cooks and interns throughout her career as a hotel chef. She often reminds them how important it is to build a culinary foundation on classic recipes and basic techniques. “Each cook can then apply his or her style, but it all stems from mastering the classics,” Taubin says.

Although a simple recipe, pay close attention to ensure that the potatoes are cooked soft so they purée smooth, and that the soup is cooked at a simmer, not a boil. “The trick to working with thick soups is not to let your heat source be too high,” Taubin says. “Thicker soups can scorch easily. Make sure you stir often. You may also need to adjust the consistency with a little extra cream or stock once the soup has chilled.”

Ingredients:

2 Tennessee sweet potatoes 2 Kennebec potatoes ½ Vidalia onion 2 leeks 2 oz. butter, divided 32 oz. natural chicken stock, divided 16 oz. heavy cream, divided Salt, to taste 3 oz. mascarpone cheese 1 oz. blood orange purée

For the modern version of vichyssoise, Taubin uses Kennebec potatoes, plentiful in the South, because they are hearty, have a well-balanced flavor, hold together well and do not become mealy. For a contrast in color, and to complement the sharpness of the leeks, she adds sweet potatoes.

Once you have a strong grasp on the classical, explore the many modern variations, such as using a purple Peruvian potato with a white potato, or leaving the soup chunky and rustic, adding a pancetta crisp. With a strong classical foundation and respect for the recipe, the rest is up to you.

The yin-yang design in the soup shows that each soup has its own identity while melding well together.

1. Peel both kinds of potato; cut into 1-inch cubes. Keep separate. Hold in cold water.

2. Julienne onion. Slice two leeks ¼-inch thick. Use white part only; reserve green part for garnish. Soak in cold water to remove all sand.

3. Place two pots on medium heat. Place 1 oz. butter in each; melt. Sauté leeks in one pot until soft. In the other, sauté onion until transparent.

4. Add Kennebec potatoes to leeks. Add 16 oz. stock and 8 oz. cream. Simmer. Add sweet potatoes to onion. Add 16 oz. stock and 8 oz. cream. Simmer.

5. When potatoes are soft, remove from heat.

6. Purée with Bermixer. Keep potato mixtures separate. Taste; adjust seasoning. If too thick, add a little more stock. Chill overnight.

7. Prior to service, check soup for consistency. If too thick, add cream.

8. Prepare garnish: Blend cheese and blood orange purée. Thinly slice reserved green parts of leeks. Clean thoroughly; dry.

9. To serve: Pour into serving bowls with sweet potato on one side and white potato on the other. Garnish with a quenelle of blood orange/mascarpone cheese purée and leeks.