sizzle - Summer 2010

Seafood en papillote was a new dish for Kline, but “a major blast from the past in the culinary world.” She appreciates the dish for its simplicity and the way the flavors come together.

“The ingredients give the dish a variety of texture, from the crab and fish to the vegetables,” says Kline. “You can even substitute a starch for a vegetable.”

The object here is not to choose sides, but to illustrate how today’s modern dishes often springboard from the pool of classical cuisine. Master the classical. Know that there is a difference between classical and old-fashioned, and appreciate not only the historical significance of classical cuisine, but its important place in modern cookery. Then, and only then, can you move on to the modern. Notice that despite its differences, the modern recipe still is anchored in classical technique.

There is no better time to enjoy seafood than summer. With this in mind, Andy Bacigalupo, culinary arts/hospitality management instructor at The Bay-Arenac ISD Career Center in Bay City, Mich., and Arin Kline, a high school senior who recently won SkillsUSA Michigan’s Region 3 championship, chose to prepare seafood en papillote, a classical and healthy way to cook seafood. Healthful cooking is especially important for Bacigalupo, who lost 40 pounds and five and a half inches from his waist after completing Dr. Oz’s no-salt health challenge earlier this year.

“En papillote” is a French term meaning “in paper.” Seafood (and sometimes poultry) and vegetables are common ingredients prepared using this moist-heat technique. Liquids released from the food and added cooking liquids steam the ingredients—and as an added bonus, it doesn’t take much time to cook. Sauce américaine, a classical sauce for shellfish created by Pierre Fraisse, a Parisian chef of the 1860s, can be served on or alongside the classical dish. For the modern interpretation, Bacigalupo prepares a South-Pacific inspired Mahi Mahi Wrapped in Banana Leaves with Vanilla Maple Shrimp and a Spicy Mango Sauce.

Versatility is what makes this cooking technique appeal to so many. Different types of thin fish fillets, such as salmon, sea bass, cod, flounder and sole also work well. When choosing vegetables, Kline suggests selecting quick-cooking raw vegetables, such as a julienne of carrots, leeks and snow peas, or blanched vegetables. If vegetables are raw or don’t have enough liquid, add a tablespoon or two of water or white wine. To save time, fish packets can be prepared and refrigerated for a few hours before cooking.

Kline’s most important words of advice for students preparing this dish are to pay close attention to timing.

Arin Kline Student John Glenn High School Bay City, Mich.

Yield: 1 serving

Ingredients:

1/8 oz. olive oil

4 oz. mahi mahi Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ½ t. butter 1½ oz. lobster tail, slipper tail split 3 littleneck clams 3 mussels, de-bearded 2 bay scallops 3 16/20 shrimp, peeled, deveined 3-4 pieces carrot, julienne 3-4 pieces shallot, julienne 3-4 pieces zucchini, julienne 3-4 pieces yellow squash, julienne 3 broccoli buds

“If cooked too long, the fish will become rubbery,” she says. “When serving the dish, you want the bag to still be blown up and

1 mushroom, sliced 1 lemon slice 1 lime slice Pinch fresh parsley Pinch thyme 3-4 drops vermouth or dry white wine Sauce Américaine (recipe follows)

Method: Preheat oven to 500°F. Fold 1 sheet parchment paper in half lengthwise; starting from fold, cut out 1 heart-shaped piece. Make heart about 2 inches wider than fish fillets. Open paper heart on flat working surface; brush lightly with olive oil. Place mahi mahi on one side of heart shape; sprinkle fish with salt, pepper and butter. Arrange lobster tail, clams, mussels, scallops and shrimp on top of fillet.