Sizzle - Fall 2010

The object here is not to choose sides, but to illustrate how today’s modern dishes often springboard from the pool of classical cuisine. Master the classical. Know that there is a difference between classical and old-fashioned, and appreciate not only the historical significance of classical cuisine, but its important place in modern cookery. Then, and only then, can you move on to the modern. Notice that despite its differences, the modern recipe still is anchored in classical technique.

As autumn approaches, so comes the joy of cool-weather comfort foods, such as beef Wellington and its many varieties. For the fall face-off we called on Patrick Hoogerhyde, executive chef at Glacier BrewHouse — an award-winning restaurant and brewery in Anchorage, Alaska — and Ashley Gurke, production cook, who graduated from The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, N. Y., in April. Here, we explore the history behind beef Wellington, look at its modern interpretations and, in keeping with this issue’s menu-trends topic, suggest appropriate beer pairings (if age-appropriate).

Beef Wellington consists of a fillet of beef covered with pâté de foie gras or duxelles — a mixture of finely chopped mushrooms, shallots and herbs that is slowly cooked in butter to form a thick paste — which is wrapped in pastry and baked. Little is known of the date and origin of the dish, but there is a story to its name. When Napoleon Bonaparte was defeated at Waterloo in 1815 by the British forces under Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Wellington, the English named several items in Wellesley’s honor. According to The Food Encyclopedia (Robert Rose Inc., 2006), this dish, which he loved, was also named in his honor. For the modern interpretation, Hoogerhyde prepares Wild Alaskan Salmon Wellington with Braised Autumn Greens, Roasted Asparagus, Truffle Hollandaise and Pinot Noir Syrup.

Gurke, who first tried beef Wellington in culinary school, was anxious to prepare it for the first time, as it is not a common dish in restaurants in Alaska.

“I love the presentation of this dish and all of its components,” she says. “The flavors marry together well. The crispiness of the

puff pastry is a nice contrast to the
tenderness of the beef.”
Preparing beef Wellington is
time-consuming, which may be one
reason why it is not as common in
restaurants, says Gurke. Students
who prepare this dish will take
away many basic techniques,
such as baking, sautéing, meat
fabrication, roasting and various
knife cuts. Instead of the traditional
foie gras, which can be difficult to
find in Alaska, Gurke used chicken
liver pâté, easily found in stores
or made from scratch. The pâté’s
texture is a good substitute for foie
gras, she says.

Gurke had success with the dish

Beef Wellington

Ashley Gurke Production Cook Glacier BrewHouse Anchorage, Alaska Yield: 2-3 servings

Ingredients:

1 lb. fillet of beef, trimmed

Salt and pepper, to taste

3 oz. chicken liver pâté

8 oz. Mushroom Duxelles

(recipe follows)

¾ lb. puff pasty

1 egg, beaten

Roasted Vegetables (recipe follows) Red Wine Sauce (recipe follows)

Method: Preheat oven to 400°F with fan on high. Season beef with salt and pepper. Spread pâté over fillet; spread mushroom duxelles over pâté. Center fillet on pastry. Wrap pastry around fillet; fold sides. Trim, if needed. Brush pastry with egg. Bake in oven until beef reaches 115°F and pastry is golden-brown.

the first time preparing it, but did face one obstacle. “I had a hard time wrapping the fillet with the puff pastry. I would suggest buying

SUGGESTED BEER PAIRING: GLACIER BREWHOUSE BEAM BLACK RYE BOCK

Allow to rest 10 minutes. Slice; serve with roasted vegetables and red wine sauce.

Mushroom Duxelles

Yield: 8 oz.

Ingredients:

8 oz. crimini mushrooms, cleaned, finely chopped

1 T. butter

2 T. minced shallot

2 t. fresh minced thyme 1 T. dry sherry Salt and pepper, to taste

Method: Remove moisture from mushrooms. Heat medium-sized sauté pan to medium-high; add butter. Once butter is melted, sweat shallot. Add mushrooms and thyme; cook until liquid is almost completely evaporated. Add sherry; cook until completely evaporated. Season with salt and pepper. Cool. Reserve.